Another week and another London Walk! This week I did the Old Palace Quarter, which was a really lovely walk around areas just outside of Buckingham Palace, places where those who wanted to be close to Court would live. The park also linked Piccadilly with the palace. Our tour guide was Isobel, who had really lovely stories to tell and just a few bits of gossip to share.
We started in Green Park, just outside Buckingham Palace. Interestingly, I never knew this was anywhere near the palace; we always went to St. James Park when we wanted to visit the palace . But Green Park is just beautiful; there are no formal flower gardens here, just daffodils everywhere. The daffodils were planted in honor of the jubilee anniversary of Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip. Isobel told a great story about why there are no flower gardens; unfortunately I can’t recall the details, something about a queen looking out her window to see the king picking flowers that she thought were going to be for her. When he never gave her flowers (they were obviously for someone else he held close to his heart), she decreed that there would be no flower beds.
A gentleman by the name of Henry Jermyn developed the area north of St. James’s Palace, building St. James Square and the surrounding streets. The design was so well done that it was the inspiration for the growth of the entire West End of London. Jermyn is rumored to have been secretly married to the widow of Charles I and that he may have been the true father of at least one of her children, even perhaps of Charles II himself. A few of the buildings we saw as we walked through the area are shown below.
Buildings on the right were fashionable at the time; the more modern building in the front is where Rupert Murdoch and his new wife Jerry Hall live
Remember Oliver Twist? Thieves used to use children to enter homes using these small windows and then have them open the doors to allow the thieves in.
Next was Spencer House; yes, as in Diana Spencer, future Princess Diana
We ran into a few houses of famous folks, as well as noted a “real” Coal Hole (not to be confused with the pub next to Tim’s building).
On to Dukes Hotel, built in the beginning of the 20th Century. Isobel told us it is a really great place to have tea. The Queen Mum loved to have martini’s here. Purportedly, Ian Fleming liked them so much, he made it James Bonds’ favorite drink.
Around the corner and down a little alley to the Stafford Hotel, a 5 star luxury hotel. It was originally a private residence (actually 2) that was owned by Lord and Lady Lyttelton, daughter of the then Earl Spencer. Lady Lyttelton was pressed into service as nanny to Queen Victoria’s children. The hotel added the stables on what once was Stable Lane, which housed thoroughbreds of the nobility, including Copenhagen, the Duke of Wellington’s horse. There is a wine cellar underneath that was a bomb shelter during WWII (what a fabulous place to get stuck I would think!); you can rent the cellar for events. The Stafford also has The American Bar where every available wall and surface is crammed with a collection of artefacts and knickknacks, the beginning of which was a small American Eagle.
St. James Square is known for its numerous gentlemen’s clubs. The first picture below I believe is Brooks, which was started by “macaroni’s” – dandy’s that modeled their fashion after Italian flair – who were mostly Whigs who supported America during the revolution. The door is to Brooks. The pink one I believe is Bootles, where Ian Fleming was a member. The white one is, well, White’s, the oldest gentlemen’s club in London where Charles and William are members.
St. James Square is known for ritzy gentlemen’s fashion as well as high-end liquor and cigars. The statue is of Beau Brummell, who is credited for establishing a mode of dress that is now the modern men’s suit worn with a necktie. He did not like the overly ornate fashions of the time and preferred understated, but perfectly fitted and tailored bespoke (hand-made) garments that included dark coats, full-length trousers rather than knee breeches and stockings, and immaculate linen shirts with an elaborately knotted cravat. It is said that he claimed he took five hours a day to dress and recommended that boots be polished with champagne! He was considered quite the dandy; unfortunately, he gambled a bit too much and had to flee to France to avoid debtor’s prison. His last debt was at White’s, where they still list his debt as unpaid.
The gentleman in the picture below is a “bumble”, which is in essence a private security guard. Bumbles were originally ex-service men hired to guard what used to be an alley here between St. James Square and Piccadilly, where the “riff-raff” would leave their oyster shells, creating quite a stink. I seem to remember in Oliver Twist, Charles Dickens called the warden Bumble.
Fortnum & Mason is the Queen’s grocery store. Fortnum originally was a footman who served Queen Anne. He actually stole the candles that he blew out each day and sold the wax on the streets, making a good bit of money. He used this money to partner with Mason to create a small grocery store that has grown into quite an establishment. They have a fascinating history (click on the link to read about it), that includes creating the first Scottish Egg as portable food for travellers and introducing baked beans to the English.
We next visited St. James’s Church, designed by Christopher Wren. The altar work and organ were just gorgeous.
Walking down the street, we passed Christie’s Auction House (with a very friendly guard out front). Did you know that Christie’s sales rooms display property from upcoming sales in the days before the auction that are free and open to the public?
Down a very small and dark alley brought us to a lovely small square that houses Berry Brothers, London’s original wine and spirit shop that was opened in 1698 originally as a coffehouse. The original coffee scales are still in the store, where not only was coffee weighed, but also many customers, including Lord Byron (he was told he “only” weighed 10 stone, which made him very happy). They also have a huge wine cellar underneath.
We passed St. James’ Palace of course. Anne Bolyn spent the night before her marriage here, Queen Elizabeth I lived here, and Queen Anne had all 17 of her children here (unfortunately, 16 died in childbirth and the remaining child died early in childhood). Now it basically is used as offices, although ambassadors are presented to court here and Diana laid in state after her death.
Last, but certainly not least, is The Red Bull Pub. Originally named Checkers, it was the first pub rebuilt after the Great Fire. Our last stop on the tour was Clarence House, where Prince Charles and Camilla live.
Now that was quite some tour, wasn’t it! The other days of the week were spent working and preparing for our vacation to Portugal. A note to friends – I am a week behind on writing my blog. I typically write on Mondays, as most of you know, but last Monday we were in Portugal. I will have two blogs coming up in the next week, one on our time in Lisbon and one on our visit to Porto.
Until then, Cheers Mates!
Mind The Gap 